I feel this ancient, holy road has been a part of my life since I set out from Santander on Halloween Eve. Perhaps it’s been longer, when I read about the Way of St. James in a children’s book in the library at Mildred Elementary School. These days, I’m cynical about destiny, but sitting in the square of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, celebrating with people of all age groups and places around the world, I can’t help but be a believer. Gracias a Dios for all 315 km and then some.
Buen Camino, peregrinos, we made it.
Lessons from the Camino Primitivo
Day One: Oviedo to Cabruñana
Distance: 30 km
Sometimes you go farther than you intended. Things don’t always go as planned, but it works out in the end.
Day Two: Cabruñana to Salas
Distance: 15 km
The smallest village comes alive in the town square. Wine and snacks always taste better when shared.
Day Three: Salas to Tineo
Distance: 18.4 km
You may hurt yourself along the way, but with pacing and patience, you will arrive eventually.
Nothing beats a home-cooked meal with good friends.
Sunsets never get old.
Day Four: Tineo to Pola de Allande
Distance: 31.9 km
Slow down and notice the little things. Pay attention to your body and things beyond the path.
Day Five: Pola de Allande to La Mesa
Distance: 20.5 km
The hardest days have the best views.
Speak to strangers. Don’t be afraid to put yourself out there.
Day Six: La Mesa to Grandas de Salime
Distance: 18.1 km
It’s better to travel alone than in bad company.
You will find a place in the end, even if you have to hunt down the village priest and beg him to open up the kindergarten classroom for you to sleep in. 😛
Enjoy the fiesta. Dance in the street. Drink sidra, share your space, tell jokes in multiple languages.
Day Seven: Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada
Distance: 25.7 km
Do yoga on top of a mountain overlooking an ancient Celtic hill fort.
Goodbye doesn’t really mean goodbye. It’s a “see you later, glad we shared a piece of each other’s path for whatever short period of time.”
Day Eight: A Fonsagrada to O Cadevo
Distance: 29.1 km
Public pools with new friends from around the world + homemade camp dinners + quality conversation = perfect afternoon
You need lots of time. You need to do things with love. You must be willing to improvise. Learn to accept help. Learn to give generously.
Day Nine: O Cadevo to Lugo
Distance: 29. 3 km
Stretch everyday. Sit and enjoy your coffee. Watch the sun rise over the mountains. It’s okay to feel things. It’s okay to want things.
Day Ten: Lugo to Ferreira
Distance: 26.5 km
Wear sunblock. Stay hydrated. Listen to Lizzo to get through the hottest part of the hike.
Simple meals made with friends are the best. Enjoy a late summer afternoon in a hanging swing and hammock. Eavesdrop on ridiculous philosophical conversations under a bright orange moon.
Ask for what you need.
Day Eleven: Ferreira to Melide
Distance: 20 km
It’s okay to say no. It’s okay to be angry. It’s okay to choose your own path.
Join the local fiesta.
Eat the pulpo!
Day Twelve: Melide to O Pedrouzo
Distance: 33.3 km
Stop and share a drink with strangers and swap weird stories.
Sometimes you need small, subversive methods to change the world.
Whatever you need, from towels to sleeping bags to good friends, you will eventually find it along the way.
Under the trees of the forest, you’ll find shelter from the rain. Always look up at the canopy.
Don’t be afraid to tell the truth. Don’t be afraid to feel.
Day Thirteen: O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
Distance: 20 km
Take a break when you need it.
Sometimes the arrival isn’t what you expected.
“This isn’t a beer, this is the taste of victory.”
The friendships and relationships you make along the way are just as important as the path itself.
Reunions are the most heartwarming, wholesome thing in the world to watch and even more exhilarating to participate in.
Follow your arrow. Way will open. Buen Camino.
