Crowds. Chaos. Cachaça .
Carnaval in Brazil is an experience that everyone should try twice in their life.
What I love about Brazilian Carnaval is it has something for everyone. Do you love to dance and drink in the streets? There’s a carnaval for that. Do you love parades, traditional dances and choosing the Queen of Queens? There’s a carnaval for that. Do you love relaxing on the beach? Going to a peaceful house in the country? Staying home and watching Netflix? There are carnavals for all of this.
There’s a saying in Brazil that the new year doesn’t start until after Carnaval. Carnaval is a state of mind. People celebrate it however they please, and it is a needed break from the routine of daily life.
I spent four days in Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais, and marched and danced in five “blocos” throughout the city. Blocos or bloquinhos are Carnaval street parties, usually with a live band and a theme. Every one I went to was different. My first bloco was more like a concert with hundreds of young people and a DJ.
I met up with Marcela, a friend of my friend Madeline who also lived in Oviedo, and I hung out with her friends who are part of a feminist cycling group Marcela started in BH. We danced in the streets and shared really cheap supermarket cachaça, a type of liquor from Minas.
The bloco started in the afternoon and lasted until 7 p.m. Then a torrential downpour sent everyone home. However, other blocos lasted well into the early morning hours.
The next day Marcela helped me put on glitter and fake eyelashes and took me to a bloco which incorporated Afro-Brazilian music. We followed a group of dancers and drummers through the narrow streets and sang along with the harmonies.
Later that night we went to a “rock and roll” bloco, pronounced hock and holl in Portuguese. It featured a live band on top of massive truck who played everything from Janis Joplin to the Strokes.
Day three of partying was taking its toll on Marcela who took a break, but introduced me to her friend Ester who let me tag along with her to the Cha Cha bloco. Ester told me she felt like a VIP going to this secret bloquinho. We weren’t allowed to tell anyone on Whatsapp or post to social media about it. The streets were narrow, and they didn’t want thousands of people showing up and destroying the neighborhood.
Hundreds of people in bright and shimmering costumes came anyway, and we all marched and danced in the streets all afternoon and into the night.
My last day in Belo Horizonte, I joined back up with Marcela, and we went to a bloco specifically celebrating women and the LGBTQ community called Truck do Desejo. Her cycling friends joined us, and we danced in the streets starting at 9 a.m. I had a great time at Carnaval and am grateful that Marcela and her friends let me celebrate with them.
Tips for Carnaval
No matter where you choose to go, you will have a good time.
Some of the best carnavals are in the state of Bahia. There are cultural events and wild parties in São Paulo and Rio. A visit to the beach or a relaxing fazenda is never a bad idea. The spirit of Carnaval is choosing what makes you happy and taking a break to celebrate and rest.
Be aware of your surroundings
I had zero problems in Belo Horizonte, but in any big city it’s important to be aware of your surroundings and keep your possessions close. Most people wear a small coin purse on top of their clothes or have money belts. In big cities like Rio and São Paulo, this is vital.
Drink plenty of water
And no, Brahma and cacahça do not count.
Wear comfy shoes
You will be doing lots of walking, dancing and climbing uphill and downhill in crowds. Your feet will thank you later.
Não é não
This social campaign is designed to keep people safe from street harassment and sexual assault during Carnaval. Many people like to kiss or embrace in the streets, but if someone says, “No,” it means no, and you should leave them alone.
Relax and enjoy the ride
You will have a great time no matter what you choose to do, so enjoy the break from normal life.
Some popular songs during Carnaval festivities: