Moving from the U.S. to Brazil: First stop — São Paulo

After spending eight hours on a plane, I was afraid a massive city like São Paulo would be overwhelming. It’s known as an “alpha global city” and wins the title of “most populous city in Brazil, the Western Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere” as well as the largest Portuguese-speaking city in the world. It’s nearly four times the size of NYC, and as a girl from rural Texas, I was preparing to be lost.

Navigating public transport

However, thanks to an easy-to-navigate public transit system and the legendary welcoming nature of Brazilians, I made it to my Couchsurfing host’s flat with zero problems. Buses and taxis from the airport are abundant, and Uber is well-used and quite affordable. I took a short metro ride from the bus station, and my host met me so I wouldn’t have to walk to his flat alone in the dark.

Warm welcomes

My host Carlos was amazing. He was very welcoming, and although he had to work at the local university, he made time to tell me more about Brazilian culture as well as share his home-cooked food. His boyfriend David, who is also wonderful, made me breakfast and coffee — Brazil brews some of the best in the world — and then chatted with me in a mix of Portuguese, Spanish and English.

Carlos’s flatmate Mariana was also extremely hospitable. She was practicing her English so I got to use my terrible Portuguese, and we muddled through the language barrier and became friends. She also likes museums so we decided to go to some exhibits together.

Where to go in São Paulo

Avendia Paulista

São Paulo is full of museums with some of the best art in the world. While there, Mariana and I went to a free cultural center with an exhibition on the Brazilian comic artist Maurício de Sousa, creator of the beloved “Monica’s Gang.” The same center also had an Art Nouveau exhibit featuring the works of Alphonse Mucha.

We also went to the legendary MASP museum (Museu de Arte de São Paulo) which was free on Tuesday. I was buzzed to see art by Renoir, Degas, Picasso, Manet, Rubens and El Greco as well as works by Latin American artists I’d never seen before.

Several pieces that stuck out to me where created by Minas Gerais artist Teresinha Soares.

Do women have to be nude to enter the museum?

In the museum, a large poster posed the question, “Do women have to be nude to enter MASP?”

According to the poster, only 6 percent of artwork in the museum was made by women. Meanwhile, over 60 percent of all nude works in the museum were feminine.

In an interesting twist, when I posted some of the works on Instagram (although they were not showing genitalia and were not overtly sexual) the images were flagged by bots and removed. It seems the debate about women’s bodies, women’s works and how they play into ideas of art and censorship are still in debate.

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A ride to the top

Not far from MASP is the Sesc building which is worth a visit for the views alone. David uses this building to play volleyball, and there is a gym for members. Every floor has something different including art exhibits and restaurants. Mariana and I rode all the way to the top where we enjoyed the views of the city, and then had coffee and shared a sandwich in the cafeteria.

Itaú Cultural

Mariana and I also explored the nearby Itaú cultural center and saw an exhibit on the Brazilian singer Alceu Valença. Mariana introduced me to great songs by him including “Girassol/ La Belle De Jour.”

Augusta Street

Later that evening, I met with another Couchsurfing friend, Claudio, who took me to Augusta Street, which is full of trendy restaurants and bars. We tried Brazilian craft beer and checked out a new vegan restaurant. This area is good for nightlife and hanging with friends.

Ibirapuera Park

The next day, I met up with Esther, a friend from Couchsurfing, who is a great cultural ambassador for São Paulo. She was incredibly friendly and knowledgeable about her city. She met me at the metro, and we took a bus to nearby Ibirapuera Park, which is basically the Central Park of São Paulo. She showed me a collegiate drumming circle which is really popular in Brazil, and we nerded out about music, language and how she tricks her professors into letting her sing Disney songs for her music major. We are now planning a trip to Bonito, which she assures me is one of the most beautiful places in Brazil.

Museu Afro Brasil

In Ibirapuera Park, there are a few museums including my favorite — the Museu Afro Brasil. I’ve visited lots of art museums throughout my travels and the emphasis is usually put on European and Asian art with maybe an exhibit on Egypt or some African tribal masks. This was the first time I got to see a museum focused entirely on African history and artists. It had artwork from Benin, Togo, Botswana, the Congo — just to name a few countries — and explored the impact of Afro-Indigenous artists on Brazilian culture and identity. I learned about famous Brazilian singers, political figures, writers, football stars, actors and artists. It was refreshing, and the art was phenomenal.

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Japanese Pavilion

Inside the park is a Japanese Pavilion that was built using the same methods that were used to build the Royal Palace in Kyoto. It has a large carp pond, and the fish swam around in a frenzy of orange, white, purple and blue. I was surprised to hear that Brazil has the largest Japanese population outside of Japan, and there is even a Japanese neighborhood, Liberdade in São Paulo.

Astrophysics School

I checked out the Astrophysics School that was also in the park. It had an exhibit featuring hanging meteorites in glass bottles and a large telescope. The building hosts lectures and classes, and there is also a planetarium in the park.

Trying new foods

One of the best parts of visiting any place is trying new food and drinks. I met back up with Claudio, and he introduced me to cuixinhas, which are a bit like conical crepes. He also took me to a great pizzeria, as São Paulo is known for having the best pizza in Brazil. We tried caiparinhas, a mixed drink that can be made with a variety of different liquors and fruits. Mine had cachaça, a liquor that’s found in my new region, Minas Gerais, and lime with cashews. It was delicious.

Recommendations for your visit

• Do carry cash and be prepared for ATM fees.
• Do buy a metro card to save time and money
• Do try new foods and reach out to locals through Couchsurfing or event pages
• Do be safe and aware of your surroundings. But don’t stress terribly about safety. Even though it’s a huge city and can be overwhelming, Brazilians are kind and helpful. I had zero problems while there.
• Do practice basic Portuguese phrases as not everyone speaks English or Spanish.

More spots to check out

Beco do Batman in Vila Madelana: A cool neighborhood featuring bright and colorful street art.

Old Downtown: Don’t miss sites like the Municipal Market, Municipal Theater, Monastery of São Bento, Catedral da Sé, Estádio do Pacaembu and Museu do Futebol.

Serra do Mar State Park: Right outside the city is a massive state park with more biodiversity than the Amazon and sweeping views of São Paulo.

Although many tourists skip São Paulo and head right to Rio, I had a great time. It’s a city I definitely would visit again.