When you live in a Western country, you often hear commentary like: “Don’t go to — insert Northern African or Middle Eastern country — in that part of the world. They don’t respect women; you’ll be kidnapped; people are out to get you, etc.

Forbes went as far as to name Morocco one of the most dangerous places for women travelers in a recent article.

After stepping foot on a third continent, I can confidently say these comments are the furthest from the truth. As anyone who has ever met a family from the Middle East or Northern Africa knows, they are some of the most hospitable and welcoming people you will meet.

As a friend from Iran put it: “If you knock on any door in my city and ask for help, people will make you feel at home.”

Of course, cultural stereotypes work both ways, and this isn’t true for every person in every diverse country that makes up the Arab League, but we had the best time in Morocco, and everyone was extremely kind and helpful.

Where did we go?

Chaouen

We started off the trip in the city of Chaouen, also known as Chefchaouen or the Blue City. We met up with a friend, and she helped us find a grand taxi to drive the two hours from the Tangier Airport. The passing landscape was mountainous and green with forests and farmland and our driver, Kareem, was extremely helpful even though we didn’t speak Arabic. It was only after we arrived that we figured out we could all speak Spanish. :p He took us as close to our hostel as he could, then called the hostel owner who came to guide us through the steep, winding streets to our hotel.

Chaouen is a town straight out of a storybook. Founded in the early 1470s, it’s nestled in the Rif Mountains with sweeping views of the countryside where shepherds and goats roam the hills outside the city walls. Chaouen is known for its bright sapphire hues and lives up to its nickname, The Blue City. The streets are narrow and packed with shops selling souvenirs and spices, and just outside the main tourist part of the city, locals work and hang out with their friends and family. People are friendly and make an effort to help strangers on the street, even if they don’t speak a common language.

We visited a Spanish mosque on a hill above the city and a small waterfall where people washed their clothing.

We tried Moroccan dishes and drank cups of mint tea while listening to the Muslim call to prayer, which they practice communally five times a day. It’s a calm place despite the tourists and hype, and after spending two nights in a small, family-owned hostel, we traveled back to Tangier.

Tangier 

Tangier has a special place in my heart because historically, it was a city of weird, sometimes volatile characters. As a haven for sailors and pirates, it was the only region to be separate from the rest of the country as an international zone. People who are from Tangier are proud of it, and it shows.

The city boasts mountains, seaside, national forests and protected natural areas which are free and open to the public. Some highlights include the Medina, where you can buy everything from Argan oil to a Mickey Mouse backpack; the Grand Mosque; and the port and harbor.

We stayed at the Hotel Continental, a grand, stately outfit right on the waterfront, which made us feel like 1950s movie stars and was cheaper than most youth hostels in Europe.

While in Tangier, we visited Cinema Rif. A night at this famous theater is a favorite pastime for locals and visitors. It features art house, classic and indie films in a restored 1940s art-deco building. Films are showcased in their original versions with French or Arabic subtitles. Most films are by American, French or Moroccan directors. When we were there, they were preparing for international film showcases.

We met with one of Victoria’s friend’s family members who works as a surf instructor in the small seaside village of Asilah. He was born and raised in Tangier and was nice enough to show us around the city, taking us to a national seaside forest and the point where the Mediterranean and Atlantic oceans meet.

Asilah

On our last full day, we took a taxi to Asilah and had a surf lesson. It was incredible and one of my favorite experiences from the past year.

Foooood

We tried Moroccan dishes including couscous, tajine, pastilla, kefta, Moroccan bread and salad, and some incredible sweets, which oddly enough, we bought from a pizza place. We drank cups and cups of mint tea, which Moroccans pour using a special technique, lifting the teapot high in the air. We also enjoyed fresh fruit juices, including orange, strawberry and even a mix of avocado and apple.

Language

As we were wandering around Asilah, trying to get back to the city, we stopped people on the street and asked if they spoke Spanish, English or French. We ended up taking a “taxi” (which was more like someone’s van) with a man who only spoke Arabic. We introduced ourselves and Mohammed, the driver, called his wife who spoke to Victoria in French in order to find the hotel. We had a simple word list and would point to the sunset and say things like “Zweena.” (It’s beautiful.) Victoria recited four letters of the Arabic alphabet, which was all she knew, and Mohammed told her a few more. Asia pointed to a stadium and said football in Spanish. Mohammed taught us the word for football (kurat.) Asia said “juego kurat en un campo” to which Mohammed magically pulled out a tennis ball. At that point all four of us were dying laughing. We got to our hotel, and Mohammed charged us less than other taxis. It was one of the best conversations I’ve had and shows that communication depends on motivation. 

Where to next? 

We fell in love with Northern Africa and the Middle East, and now want to visit other countries including Lebanon, Tunisia, Algeria, Turkey and Jordan. We also hope to take a trip to the Sahara and Egypt in the next few years. We’re all eager to return to this part of the world, next time with better Arabic. النِهاية