Tunisia was my 40th country to visit, and it was even more than I’d imagined. From stargazing in the Sahara, to seeing the oldest mosque in Africa, the North African country has much to offer both groups and solo travelers. 

In November, I spent two weeks exploring Tunisia; I went to my friend Khaoula’s wedding in Sidi Bou Saïd and stayed one more week to travel by myself. I’ll go over my itinerary, the names of tour groups I used, and where I would go back to see more. For more information, you can reach out to my newsletter; I respond to every message! 

How to get to Tunisia

Several European cities have direct, economical flights to Tunisia including Madrid, Paris, and London. Since I was flying from the United States, I booked a flight from Texas that had a long layover in Paris and then flew directly to Tunis. It gave me a night to explore Paris and try traditional French food, before heading to my final destination. To find flights, you can search using a third-party site like Skyscanner or Momodo, and then book directly with the airline. November is the off-season in the country, after the busyness of summer and before Ramadan. Usually, it’s colder and rainy around this time of year, but this season was uncharacteristically warm due to climate change factors.

Where to go in Tunisia

I’ll go over my itinerary and then let you know about other sites and regions you can visit. Please note that the first week of my trip, I was celebrating my friend’s wedding. We did a Hammam (traditional sauna and baths) and had three nights of celebrations. Because of this, I stayed more time in Sidi Bou Saïd and La Marsa than I normally would. Although the area is gorgeous and relaxing, it’s touristy, and you really only need a day or two there. 

• Oct. 30-Nov.1: Tunis, the capital
• Nov. 1-5: Sidi Bou Saïd, Carthage, and La Marsa
• Nov. 5-6: El Djem and Monastir (Day tour from Tunis)
• Nov. 6-7: Kairouan and Sousse (Day tour from Tunis)
• Nov. 8-10: Djerba (You can take a 50-min. flight or 6-9 hour bus ride from Tunis)
• Nov. 10-11: Two-day desert tour from Djerba to Tataouine, Chahbania Salt Lake, Chenini, Ksar Ghilane, the Sahara Desert, Tamazret, Matmata, Sidi Idriss (Star Wars film site), and Toujane.  
• Nov. 12-13: Back to Tunis to fly home.
• Nov. 13-14: 24-hour layover in Paris

Places I would visit if I had more time: 

1. Tozeur: The city that shows you all the desert has to offer. 
2. Bizerte: Ideal place for hiking and boasts the northernmost tip of Africa. 
3. Tabarka: Best place for diving and snorkeling, you’ll see lots of coral and massive grouper. 
4. Sfax: Less touristic city with fascinating cultural sites.
5. I would also spend more time in Kairouan and parts of the south. 

Other places to visit:

• Hammamet: Tiny resort town. Pretty touristic but fun for a day. 
• Mahdia: Less touristy version of Monastir, nice coastal town. 
• Douz: “The Gateway to the Desert:” A great jumping off point if you want to see more of the Sahara and oases.

Where to stay in Tunisia 

I avoided airbnb for this trip and stayed in local dars (guesthouses) and hotels. I found them using Booking.com, but if you contact the hotel or dar directly, you’ll get a better rate. There are also a variety of hostel options or staying with local people who rent out a room in or above their apartment. 

Where I stayed in Tunis: 

• Dar Ben Gacem: I 100% recommend this guesthouse in the middle of the Medina. Beautifully decorated and hospitable staff. Reach out to them directly for a better price. 
• DownTown Tunis Hotel: Lovely, small hotel near the airport. I would stay here if you need to catch an early flight or if your plane is coming in late. 

Where I stayed in Sidi Bou Said: 

• Cute apartment above the house of a sweet, hospitable family. Reach out to them directly for a better price. 

Where I stayed in Djerba:

• Hotel Radisson: 5-star resort, right on the water. My first stay at a resort like this. It was definitely nice to have the beach access and fancy amenities, but overall, I prefer staying at dars. 
• Cheaper hostel recommended by a friend, close to the famous synagogue. 

Where I stayed in the desert: 

• Tent camping at Sahara Lounge in the oasis of Ksar Ghilane: This was set up by my tour group and included dinner and breakfast.

What not to miss in Tunisia

• Tunis Medina and the Bardo Museum

• Carthage Archaeological Sites

• El Djem Amphitheatre and Archeological Museum

• Kairouan, the 4th holiest city, with the oldest mosque in Africa

• The Ribat in Sousse or Monastir 

• Chenini (One of my favorite villages carved into the mountain, bring good walking shoes)

• The Sahara Desert and an oasis (ideal for riding quads along the dunes and stargazing)

Tunisian foods to try

I definitely recommend getting fresh fish from a market in Kairouan or Djerba, taking it to a restaurant and having them cook it for you at a cheaper price.

Some restaurants/ cafes I recommend in Tunis:

• Weld Elhaj
• Dar Slah
• Cafe du Souk
• Cafe Panorama

Drinks

• Mint tea
• Fresh fruit juices
• Lemonade with mint 
• Tea with almonds and pine nuts
• Tea with rosemary and honey

Food

• Tunisian couscous with lamb, fish, or chicken
• Sand bread made in the desert
• Any seafood near the coast
• Chapati
• Brik
• Lablabi
• Kafteji
• Ojja
• Olives
• Dates
• Tajine
• Harissa
• Merguez
• Fricassee
• Shakshuka
• Lamb stew
• Tunisian salad

Desserts/ Sweets

• Assidat zgougou
• Bambalouni
• Baklawa

Trip Logistics

• Getting a SIM card
  • You can easily buy a local SIM card at the airport in Tunis. Or, pay a little more for an eSim from an app like Airalo. That’s what I did, and I had full coverage for 15 days without needing a physical card. 
• Exchanging money or using an ATM
  • You can exchange money at the airport in Tunis and find ATMs throughout the city. Cash is king in this country, so it’s good to have enough cash for your food, taxi, souvenirs, and sometimes even accommodation. I use a Charles Schwab debit card to avoid paying ATM fees around the world. It’s free to open an account and there are no fees. 
• Downloading Bolt or getting a taxi
  • Bolt is extremely convenient for finding taxis in Tunis. You will select your ride and pay your driver in cash. Be aware it does not work in all Tunisian cities, like Djerba, for example. 
  • For other cities, you can ask your hostel to call you a taxi or find one on the street. Make sure they turn on the fare meter or you agree to a price beforehand. 

• Tour group I used for my desert tour
  • Depart Travel Services leaving from Djerba. Definitely book with them directly as it will be about $50 cheaper. 
• Local guides I recommend
  • Tunisia Travel Planner: This is my friend Hazel’s tour company which offers custom trips all around Tunisia. He’s based in Tunis and I 100% recommend him.
  • Nour, based in Tunis. She’s an incredible guide and offers everything from a walking tour around Tunis to day trips to Sousse and Kairouan. 
  • Jalel, based in Djerba. He usually leads German language tours but is branching out to do English and was a really kind and informative guide. 

Message me if you want the contact information for any of these guides, and I will send it to you!

Using transportation in Tunisia

• Taxis: Taxis are affordable and abundant in most cities. You can use apps like Bolt to find them, although they will cost a little more.
• Louages (shared minibus): These mini buses will take you from city to city for a very economical price. However, be aware that they do not leave until they have eight people, so you may have to wait to begin your journey.
• Buses: Tunisia is a relatively small country so you can get pretty much anywhere in 12 hours or less using public buses. 
• Light rail: I didn’t use the light rail, but there’s a pretty efficient one connecting Tunis with smaller, outlying cities, as well as one connecting Sousse to Monastir and Mahdia. There are also long-distance trains in Tunis that reach most parts of the country. 
• Private drivers: You can rent a car and hire a private driver if you want to see more of the country on your own terms. This is harder for solo travelers as it would be costly, but if you have three people in your group, it’s doable. 
• Tour groups: I used a small tour group (it was capped at four people) to visit the desert, and I’m really glad I paid extra for the experience. You get to learn about the significance of the sites you visit and meet local people who share more about their food and culture.

Tips for Tunisia

• Always tip a few dinar, it’s not expected, but very appreciated, especially for people who work in tourism. I would tip a little extra for guides and private drivers.
• I learned from my guide that the term “Berber” is not completely correct. Although many people use this word, the real term for the Indigenous people groups of Northern Africa is Amazigh, which means ‘free people’ in the Tamazight language. Berber is an outsider term that has the connotation of “stranger.” Although “Berber” is still used today, even by Amazigh people, it’s not the true term for the 460 diverse tribes of North Africa. 
• I also learned from my guide to avoid taking photos of baby camels in tourist areas because they should not be separated from their mothers and made to take photos in the hot sun. 

• For women, it’s a good idea to bring a shawl or scarf if you want to visit Islamic religious sites like the mosques in Kairouan and Tunis. You will cover your head when you visit the mosque, and then can remove your scarf when you’re finished. Scarves also come in handy for all genders when traveling in the desert, to keep the sun off your head and your face protected from the dust. 
• As far as clothing goes, I wore mostly long dresses and pants as it was a cooler time of the year. Some of my friends wore shorts and had zero issues. Some Tunisian women wear hijabs and burqas, while others wear jeans and T-shirts. Tunisia is fairly progressive when it comes to human rights, and most people seem to choose for themselves what they wish to wear. I personally dressed more modestly to blend in, but I saw people in all sorts of outfits and clothing styles. 

Tunisian words

You can get around with basic French or Arabic phrases but here are some expressions particular to Tunisia. Some people also speak Spanish and English. 

• Hello/ Aslema
• Goodbye/ Bislema
• Thank you! / Yaishek!
•  Yum! / Bnina!
• A little/ Shwaya 
• A lot / Barsha
• How much? / b’kadesh?

I loved my time in Tunisia. I feel grateful to Khaoula’s family for letting me be part of her wedding, as well as the Tunisian friends I met who showed me around their cities and introduced me to yummy street food, took me to multiple pharmacies when I got sick, and even dropped me off at the airport. I definitely recommend visiting this gorgeous, hospitable gem in Northern Africa.